Σύντομη ιστορία του στιγμιαίου καφέ στην Ελλάδα
From innovation to the bourgeoisie, to the conquest of the popular public and then to decline.
Although its popularity has been on the decline, Frappe has for years monopolized the interest of the Greek public, especially the youth. Identified today with the most 'popular' audiences, and sidelined for the sake of espresso and Freddo, against the summer memories, instant iced coffee, the well-known frappe, is an almost retro delight, bringing to many pleasant memories, interwoven with vacations, military service, days of school and generally the carefree teenage years.
From bourgeoisie coffee to popular coffee: the evolution of instant coffee in Greece.
Coffee has a long history in Greece, as in all countries that were once part of the Ottoman Empire. Already since the liberation from the Turkish occupation and the first steps of the new Greek state, the first modern cafes are being developed, with a clearly more European atmosphere than before. However, coffee remains stable: until the middle of the war, Greeks enjoyed exclusively Greek coffee, which was then called "Turkish".
Since the early post-war years, espresso has arrived in Greece, but it is addressed to a very limited audience: businessmen, diplomats and, more generally, the megacities of the era, crowded for new coffee in cafes around Syntagma Square. The rest of the Greeks continue to enjoy their traditional Greek coffee.
However, the release of instant coffee in the 1950s is creating a new trend and a new audience. The rising petty bourgeoisie and middle class find in the face of instant coffee an opportunity for modernization and Europeanization. As hard as it is to imagine today, the proliferation of instant coffee in the 1950s and '60s reflects an outward-looking mood and growing purchasing power (but also widespread interests and, to some degree, moderation cosmopolitanism) a part of Greek society. Nescafe, and generally instant coffee, becomes a symbol of new, rising social classes, in contrast to Greek coffee, which is beginning to be considered obsolete, old-fashioned and "provincial", although it naturally retains its primacy.
It will take years - and of course, the discovery of the frappe - to get stigmatized for its popularity and to be described as "popular" coffee.
The discovery of frappe and the dawn of a new era
Although various urban myths have been circulating for many years about the discovery of frappe, everyone today agrees that iced instant coffee was discovered in 1957 at the Thessaloniki International Exhibition by a Nescafe employee, Dimitris Bacondi. Bacondios, wanting to drink a cup of coffee but having no access to hot water, hits a cold water nescafe on a shaker he had on his counter for cocoa beating. Taste and rich foam impress him, and his discovery is circulated word for word until he is discovered and promoted by his company.
Easy to make, filling and strong, and frozen, as it fits the climate of Greece. The new cafe did not take long to become established, making a strong gel initially for the young audience. The 70s and 80s were the golden decades of frappe, as it is served everywhere, from baked beans to more sophisticated, expensive hangouts. It is the main coffee of the Greek summer, and is also promoted by tourists, with many visitors from abroad tasting the unprecedented (for them) drinks, with mixed reactions, ranging from enthusiasm to dislike.
The decline of frappe will begin in the early 2000s, with the spread of espresso as well as the discovery of their frozen versions, Freddo Espresso and Freddo Cappuccino. Gradually, as consumption declined, cafes began to emerge from the menu, and the decline in espresso home prices and espresso capsules gave it a rather shocking shot.
The most legendary Greek flaps were in Pagrati
Every frappe fan has stories to tell about the best frappe, the thickest, the most delicious and so on. But almost everyone agrees that the most legendary Greek frappe was served at Pagrati and was no other than the famous Lentzus frappe!
Lentzos of Pagkrati started serving frappe since the early 1970s and quickly established himself in the Athenian rather than just the public as "the best coffee in Greece". For years, Lentzu's extremely thick frappe has been rumored to use eggs, meringues, syrups, etc., which gave his coffee its unique texture. Recently, following the closure of the cafeteria in 2013, owner Christos Lentzos revealed that the secret was no more than using a large amount of coffee and sugar, and the good blow to a glass blender - moreover, Lentzos was never served with any nuts, only sweet and medium (with the addition of extra coffee, above).
Grapefruit belongs to a time that will probably never return - but that does not prevent us from enjoying its nostalgic taste, at times. The memories are perhaps sweeter than coffee!
